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Arthur Dollhouse Kit
Doll House woodworking plans.
How to make drawers with a 
45° Lock Miter Router Bit.

Shot Glass Displaycase 
Shot Glass
Display Case
Pirate's Chest- free woodworking plans
Free Pirate
Chest Plans
Horse Stable woodworking plans 
Bink's Horse Stable
Bink's Lil Wheelbarrow

This is the first time I tried using the 45° Lock Miter Router Bit. It takes a while to figure out an exact setup for this, but with a little patcience you'll be making some very nice joints very quickly. When the drawer is viewed from the side, you won't see any joinery, but you can from the top. I will be topping off mine with strips of oak, to match the drawer fronts. More on that later.

First size your panels for width, depth, and height. Fronts and backs are the same size: full width, and each side is the full depth.

The setup is really not that hard. You're going to route the fronts and backs of your drawers with the inside of the parts flat against your router table. Later, without changing the bit height or the fence location, you'll route the sides with the panels against the fence.
The fronts and backs are easy. Make sure the inside of the drawer is down against the table. I like using my miter gauge to guide the stock, but, I tried one with out the guide and it worked ok.
You can add a feather board above clamped to the fence if you perfer, tho I didn't notice any of my stock riding up on the bit.

The pic at left shows the inside of the front (or rear) panel. Imagine trying to pull the front panel off the drawer sides with that tennon sticking out like that....not gonna happen!

45° Lock Miter Router Bit
45° Lock Miter Router Bit

Drawer Lock Router Bits
Drawer Lock Router Bits

INCRA Miter Gauge
INCRA Miter Gauge

See my Ride: 1600 Vulcan Crusier
Ok, now to make the sides. This was alittle tricky since the drawers are stickin straigh up in the air. A feather board is a must here! Also I noticed the stock didn't have much support on the bottom, so I clamped a scrap piece of wood to the inside of the drawer side. 
Here's the same pic from the other side, The scrap piece rides on top of my fence giving my workpiece more support. 
Remember the drawer side panels are routed with the inside of the panels against the fence.
I read on line that sometimes it's better to take many shallow cuts, but with this bit, that would mean you would have to move the fence, not the height. That would make setup extreamly difficult, since the bit has to be in the exact same position for both routing operations. Personally I saw no need to to do this.
Kreg Face Clamp
Kreg Face Clamp

Feather Board

Four-piece router accessory kit and Featherboards
Four-piece router accessory kit and Featherboards

Router Lift FX with Rockler Exclusive Tabletop & Fence
Router Lift FX with Rockler Exclusive Tabletop & Fence


Disposable Glue Brushes
Disposable Glue Brushes

36'' & 48'' Sure-Foot™ Aluminum Bar Clamps
Sure-Foot™ Aluminum Bar Clamps

Porter Cable 18 Ga., 2'' Brad Nailer Kit, Model #BN200A
Porter Cable 18 Ga. Brad Nailer Kit

There's lots of glue surface here, should make a strong glue joint.

Assembly is like any other, toss it in the clamps. Since my drawer sides and bottoms are both plywood, you could glue the bottom panels in. This is because plywood is more stable and doesn't move with the seasons. But, glue in the joints means you need to be certain the sides are fully seated in the grooves, or else your drawers will have rounded sides and won't fit in your project!
Probably better not to glue the bottom panels.
I shot 1" brads in the joints, from the front and the back. They won't be seen and they will help prevent the joint pulling apart. 
You can find the45° Lock Miter Router Bit here!
Here is a similar drawer lock bit. This would be great to use where you don't add a drawer front to your drawer. 

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