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This barn is scaled for the 6" Breyer horses.
I made this barn for my horse loving granddaughters. I looked at lots of pictures and came up with this design. This page will help you thru the project, be sure to pick up the plans for this project at the bottom of this page. 

The first step is to layout the front and back walls. I used two sided tape to hold two pieces of 1/4" plywood together. Remember to put the good sides down and layout on the back side. The backsides become the insides of the barn, if there is any chipping while cutting, it will be on the inside of your barn.

In order to make perfectly straight cuts around the doors, a jig saw won't do. I prefer using my Porter Cable circular saw. It's light and easy to control. In this pic I'm measuring from the far side of the tooth to the edge of the shoe, looks like 3-11/16". I prefer to use a rule to measure here, because a tape measure has that floating tip that can get bent or stuck I found that when I went to a rule to measure, my work became more accurate.
Now transfer that dimension to your work piece, and use a straight edge to guide the saw.
With the shoe of your circular saw against the saw guide, slowly plunge the blade into the work piece stopping just short of the corner of the door.
Finish up the corners of the door with a fine tooth hand saw. I tried using my old veneer saw, but I had more success with my Dozuki Panel Saw. I was very impressed with the results.
Continue around the work piece until all the doors and the roof lines are cut. Now you can separate the two wall sections and clean up any rough areas left behind by your saws.
Cut the floor section out of 1/2" ply. Remember it's 1" shorter than the long wall sections. That's because the end walls do not sit on the barn floor, but are flush with the bottom of the floor.  
Here I'm laying out the two interior walls, transferring the angle of the roof to the wall. Trim this cut at the table saw.
Next layout and cut the inside arch of the inside walls. I used a coffee can to make the radius, about 2". After you make your cuts, route around the inside with a 3/16" radius bit.
Ah! It's starting to take shape! Now make the end walls scribing the roof line in the same way. 
This is a good time to add some cleats to support the lower roof sections. This is just a 1/4" x 1/2" piece attached flush to the top of the sides. No need to cut an angle here, we're not buildin a cabinet here! 
Now here I added some more cleats to support the hay loft, but the plans differ here. After i made the doors, I needed to add a door stop along the top, and these cleats were in the way, in the next pic you can see what happened...
...my door stop only covers part of the doors because the cleats are in the way! So the plans call for the door stop to also support the hayloft. But this means you'll need to hold off on the hayloft until after the doors are installed, because you'll need to know what size to make the stop in order for the doors to work properly. 
Here's a pic of the door stop. You can't cut the depth of the stops until your doors and gates are installed to determine what that depth is.
The hayloft is just another piece of 1/4" ply. Some people like to use old scraps of floor boards like Kahrs, but I just use ply. Make sure to sand the edges to cleanup any splinters. I also give the project 3 coats of semi gloss polyurethane to prevent any splinters from lifting in the future.
To make the doors and windows "pop-out" I decided to add trim and corner boards. You'll need lots! So to make this easily and safely, set up your jointer to make 3/16" wide dadoes, 1/8" deep. 

The guard is pulled back only to take the picture, never run your tools without the proper guards!!! Keep your fingers on your hands, you'll need them there finish this project!

Ok, cut the dadoe on one edge, flip the work piece around and do the edge. 
Now head over to the table saw and rip off this section carefully! Set the trim aside and head back to the jointer and repeat the process. 

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After you've made all the trim pieces plus some extra, carefully split the parts in half complete the trim. Lower the blade as far as possible for safety sake.
To miter the trim, you can use your chop saw, but the trim is delicate and will probably get destroyed, so you can make a little jig to help. It's just a couple of scrap pieces of pine glued together to form an "L" shape. Clamp this piece to your saw fence and cut the 90 and 45 degree points. Just don't cut all the way thru. My saw doesn't have a depth stop so I had to just be careful not to cut my jig in half!
While I mitered the pieces to fit, we glued and clamped them into position. Use an epoxy glue here, because if some drips out, it will blend in with the finish!
We ran out of clothes pins but "painters tape" works just as well. 
There are two pairs of barn doors, one for each side of the barn. There made up of 1/2" square stock, with half lap joints. The diagonal brace is just cut and glued into place. More 1/4" plywood on the lower half finishes the doors.
Instead of counter sinking the hinges on both the door and the door frame, i decided to just make the mortise twice as thick on the door. Cutting into the door frame would probably destroy the trim. 
To make the doors close snugly at the centers without binding, remove a small amount of wood from the inside of the center edge of the doors with a 5 degree back bevel. Just remove a little at a time from each side until you like the gap between the doors.
To make the swinging gates and the corral sections, use the same idea 1/2" stock and half lap joinery. But before you glue them up, be sure to drill the holes for the spindles. To make all the holes line up, lay out one piece with marks for the center of each spindle, they should be an equal distance from each end. Now set your depth stop so the bit doesn't go thru. Set the fence to cut the middle and the length stop for the first hole on the end. Drill that hole, flip that piece and drill the hole at the other end. Drill all the parts with that setup, then reset the length stop to the 2nd hole from the end and drill that one, flip and drill the other end again. Soon you'll be done and all the parts will be the same. Sand your parts before assembly.
Yes there's alot of parts!
I made 2 gates and 9 corral sections, that's 22 pieces with holes, 198 dowels, and lots of patience to finish them. I recommend a spray poly to finish these things!
I didn't bother to mortise the hinges of the swinging gate. But I did add the 5 degree back bevel to the strike side. I also rounded the top with a 1/8" radius bit to soften the top rail. Screw and epoxy the hinges in place. 
Then add a short piece of stop to the inside of the wall so the gate closes flush to the outside.
Lookin pretty sharp!  
Detail of the trim, and hinges
The corral sections simply have a pair of feet to hold them up.
Here I'm making the ladder for the hayloft. Start with two pieces of hardwood 3/16"x5/8"x15" and drill a 1/4" hole every 1" starting 1" from the end.
Next I rounded over all the long edges with a 1/8" round over bit, and sand smooth.
Glue in 1/4" dowels cut to 2". After the glue dries bevel the bottom to a 20 degree angle, and round over the top. I find it easier to do this on my disk sander after assembly so the bottoms are even.
The back openings are covered with 1/4"x 3/4"x 11" slats. Cut some extra 3/4" short pieces for spacers. To get the slats to line up easily, first put in two of your spacers, then glue in a slat and clamp. Then add two more spacers and glue in your next slat. It's easy!
The roof is made to fit the building loosely so it's easily removed. The roof supports fit down inside the building. Also when your making this, besure the roof is reversible, little kids won't be interested in which way the roof is on. 
If you want you can add a piece of trim to ridge but it's not necessary. 
I also added a 1/4" dowel to the underside to hide the seam, again, it's not necessary but it makes it look nicer.
Here's a close-up of the roof installed. You can also see the corner boards, and I even glued in a few raker boards along the roof line. How far you go with the details are up to you. The name plate we had made at a local office supply. 
All we need are a few more horses. You can also find scale buckets and farm tools at your local craft store.
Made from my own woodworking plan
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Here are different versions of my barn made by satisfied customers:
Made from my own woodworking plan
Made from my own woodworking plan
Made from my own woodworking plan 
Made from my own woodworking plan
Made from my own woodworking plan
Horse Stable Woodworking Plan

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