Lottery/Photo Booth

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Lottery/Photo drop booth
Page 1

5/03

Pocket hole tip
Shelf pin tip
European-style hinges

Here's another project for my local grocery store. It's going to replace their lottery and photo drop booths. You know, those plastic boxes with all the tacky advertising.
The sides and bottom of the carcass are 3/4" oak veneer plywood, the back, 1/2" oak plywood.

You can see that the edge grain of the plywood is concealed with a strip of oak. I glue this on over sized slightly, then trim it flush with the plywood face with a Flush trim bit.

Here's the detail of the toe kick. Nothing fancy, just a piece of 1x4 oak face nailed to the sides and to a nailer secured to the bottom.

There is a dado i the middle of the back panel to hold the center panel. The height of this panel will determined when I figure out the cubby holes. I plan to hang the doors directly to the side panels, eliminating the need to make a face frame. The cabinet is so small, I don't want to further restrict access to the inside with a face frame.

Piloted Flush Trim Bit

I cut the dadoes on my "Dubby" table saw sled. Line up the layout lines with the edge of the sled, perfect every time. Just don't pull the work piece back thru the dado blade, you may widen the first cut.

Assembly went smoothly, I didn't install the six small shelf pieces that fit between the verticals. Because of the tight quarters, I plan to finish the inside and the shelves separately, then slide them in later. You never have enough clamps!

Ok, here the "Pigeon holes are done and temporarily secured to the carcass. I haven't decided where to place this yet. I've drawn plans for this project, but designing is not my strong point, so I'm makin final decisions as I go.

On larger projects, I like to finish areas of the project that are complete. I feel the last thing I should do each nite is glue up an assembly or apply some finish.

Irwin C-Clamps

I made a pair of raised panel doors for this project, since it will be near the Podium I made a few years ago, I wanted them to match. These doors may get a little rougher treatment than cabinet doors in your home, so I decided to experiment with pocket hole joinery.
Click hear to learn more about making raised panel doors.

Click for larger image

My Kreg Pocket hole Jig allows me to setup and drill pocket holes quickly and easily. I was very impressed! The jig needs to be screwed to a base, I used a piece of 1x12, which is easily clamped to my workbench.

Click to learn more!

After I cut the parts, and routed the joinery, I placed the rails in the Kreg jig, centering the rail on one of the drill guide holes. The process of drilling all of the 8 holes took only a couple of minutes.

Raised Panel Router Bit - Ogee

Kreg™ K2000 Pocket Hole Jig

Kreg Jig® K3 Standard Pack

Rockler/Kreg Pocket Hole System

A special stepped drill bit comes with the jig along with a stop collar. The system is too simple! There is a built in gauge to setup the stop collar and index lines to help line up the placement of the hole.

An electric drill (not battery) is recommended. This helps clear the chips better and cut a cleaner hole.

Pocket holes offers a simple and very strong joint! And if your concerned with the inside look of the oval hole, they make wood plugs in a variety of species!

To learn more about the Kreg Jig, Click here!

Assembly is simple, square drive self tapping screws go right into the oak, I didn't split a single style!

Mini Kreg Jig and Kit

Panhead Face Frame Screw

I used 120° Blum full overlay hinges on this project. Blum "European-style" hinges are adjustable in three ways to let you align your cabinet doors for a consistent look, even where minor cabinet irregularities exist.

Click here to learn more about using European hinges!

You'll need a 35mm bit to drill out the cup hole. This is best done with a drill press with a fence. Run your drill press around 870 rpms. This prevents burning and prolongs the life of your bit. Make sure you set your depth stop to about 1/2".

To hang the shelves inside, I went the cheapo route and found these shelf clips that were left over from another job. The customer doesn't need an adjustable shelf height so I only need to drill one set of holes.

I made this jig from scrap 1/4" plywood. Use the hole at the top to guide the drill bit, and the cut out at the bottom is to fit around the hinge. When the jig rests on the floor of the cabinet, the holes will all be the same height. Flush one edge of the jig to the front and back.

Make a depth stop to limit the depth of these holes, you don't want to drill thru the side do you? I used a scrap of pipe that was laying around for this.

Forstner Hinge Cup Bits

Rockler Drill Press Table and Fence

1/4'' Shelf Plastic Supports
1/4'' Shelf Plastic Supports

Motorcycle Parts, Accessories and Apparel

Clamp the jig in place and drill those holes. Flip the jig over and flush it to the back to drill out the rear holes.

There ya go! A simple way to guarantee your shelves will be level!

On to page 2!

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