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Lottery/Photo drop booth  Page 2

 
  • Cutting across the grain in plywood.
  • Finished Pictures
  • Plans
My customer wants to add a "Film Drop Slot" to this cabinet. To do this I will need to cut a square hole in the top. Yes stuff like this makes me nervous, since plywood loves to splinter! 
The first step is to layout the exact size of your hole and run a drill into each corner. Make sure you keep the drill inside the line a bit.
Next, take a sharp razor knife and score across the grain. Keep about 1/4" away from the corners and use a straightedge!
Use your jigsaw with a fine tooth blade (to minimize splitting) and connect the holes, but stay away from the lines you scored before, this is just a rough cut. I like to put painters tape on the bottom of my jigsaw, to help prevent scratching.
Now comes the fun part. Chuck a straight cutting bit in your router. (This one has a bearing but I won't be using the bearing to guide the bit.) Measure the distance between the cutting edge and the edge of the router base, mine is just under 2-3/4".
Now make a jig for the base of the router to run against. The distance between the jig and your scored lines should be equal to the distance between the bit end base edge you measured earlier.
Sorry, no pics while I'm routeing the hole, I need both hands on my router. Here you can see the very clean cut on the edge grain of the plywood. Also, remember earlier when I told you not to score the plywood into the corners? This is why, the router bit leaves a radius in the corners. I didn't think of this and had plenty of sanding to do. 
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Straight Router Bit
Straight Router Bit


Here's the final product. I think the proportions look ok. This cabinet replaces both the lottery display and the film drop off display. The holes in the top are for the film, the back hole has a shelf underneath to support the empty film envelopes, and the front hole is where you drop your film for that 24 hour developing.

Pigeon holes hold the lottery slips and there is ample storage space below. 

Side view, is very straight forward. The top is slanted to a comfortable angle and has a lip on the front edge to keep things from rolling away on you.

See my Ride: 1600 Vulcan Crusier
These pics show the lip from a lower angle, and the support for the pigeon hole assembly. To the left and right of the holes is a 5/8"x1-1/2" piece of wood that covers the seam between the holes and the side. Gives a more finished appearance. Also you can see the pocket holes in the doors and the "European-style" hinges.
The lip in the pic above, is actually "biscuit jointed" to the pigeon hole assembly. It makes the bottom row of holes stand out a little more and divides the upper and lower sections. Choose the wood carefully, so the grain matches, you want this to look like one piece of wood, not an "add on"
These plans are available to anyone who wants to make one! But I need your help...

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