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After I finished my Sawing & Router Center, I needed to add a few options to my new router table. I needed a miter slot cut into the table, and find a way to attach my old router fence to the new tablesaw fence.

You can download the plans for this cabinet directly from WOOD Magazine

Cutting the slot was easy! I used the table saw fence as a guide for my router to plow out the miter slot grove. I cut the groove in two passes to get the proper depth. I also had to adjust the fence to make the third and fourth passes for the proper width. 
I used a 3/4" straight bit to cut the groove. So why did I have to make the groove wider than the standard 3/4" miter gauge???
Because I'm installing an aluminum miter track! The advantage here is the metal is not affected by humidity, so the slot doesn't get tight or sloppy. Always the same, consistent, I like that!

When I plowed out my groove, I went about 1/32" to deep, No problem, just slap on a couple of layers of masking tape till the metal sits flush in the groove. 

I have a few jigs that I use that require the miter slot filled so the jig doesn't fall in. The metal slot is easily filled with a piece of hardwood. I glued a small block to one end to keep it from moving around. No block on the far side, it would interfere with the saw's fence.
Ah, nice clean lines, and everything is perfectly flush! 

Now for the fence! You can make one like mine from the pages of Woodsmith, issue 103  or you can buy one and save yourself some time. 

Right now, my router tables fence needs to be mounted to the table saw fence. Maybe later I design a dedicated fence for the router, but for now this will do nicely.

I have an older Craftsmen table saw that I upgraded with their "Align a Rip" fence. The old stock fence had holes in it so it was easy to bolt my router table fence to the table saw fence. Not so with the upgraded fence, it has slots on both sides and on top.

From the router table surface, I measure up to find the center of this slot.


This is one of the two gizmos that will secure my router's fence to the table saw's fence. Yup it's just a toilet flange bolt with a "knock down" furniture nut. Both have a 1/4-20 thread.
But of course since we're dealing with a Craftsmen product, the grooves in the fence are not the same width as every other fence and attachment in the free world. It's smaller so you have to buy there attachments. Instead of the normal 3/8" bolt, you'll need to get the 1/4" bolts, then grind a bit off the part that fits in the groove, a little on each side and it fits like a glove!

If you have a standard size slot, you may be able to use the standard size 3/8" toilet flange bolts, it you can find a knock-down nut that fits it. 

Here are the specs that I used. The 1/4-20 toilet flange bolt is very common. I needed a 2-1/4" length, they are easily cut. Your length may be different.

As for the nut, look thru those drawers at your local home center to find that. Make sure you have your toilet bolt with you so your sure the threads match.

Remember earlier you measured for the center of that slot? Well take that dimension and drill the counter sink with a 3/4" forstner bit. Then drill the thru hole at 5/16" then finally the counter bore at 13/32". Of course if your "knock-down" part is different than mine, then you may need to figure your own dimensions.
Do a test fit to see if the length of your toilet flange bolt is long enough, or needs to be cut. If you have to cut the bolt, first thread on a nut, cut the length with a hack saw, file off the burr, then take off that nut. Removing the nut cleans up the threads nicely.
Now the fence slides right onto the saw's fence....


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....and a 3/16" allen wrench tightens it up securely! Make sure the fences space for the router bit is centered over your router's collet.
Now for the feather board slot, take the fence and rip out a groove to accept the tee track. You can find different lengths of this stuff here!
My fence is hollow, down the middle, and hooks up to my dust collector. I noticed when I started to tighten up the screws (top arrow at left) which hold the tee slot in position, that the hollow fence started to collaps in the middle. Cutting the groove for the tee slot weakened the fence. So to support the face of the fence when the screws were tightened, I cut some hardwood blocks the same length of the hollow void (bottom arrow at left). I drilled a 1/4" hole in the block and stuffed it in the fence, then let the mounting screw pass thru the block into the back of the fence. Problem solved.
Take notice where the feather boards mount to the tee track, and keep this in mind when you decide where to install the tee track so you have the range of motion you want. I set the lowest position at about 1/4", so that tells me where to cut the groove for the tee track.

Nice cleans lines!

And a spot for the 3/16" allen wrench, that's needed to mount the fence to the saw's fence.
Using two feather boards like this keep the stock tight to the table at all times, but this won't help you keep stock tight to the fence...
You'll also need a feather board that mounts in the miter slot to keep the stock tight to the fence. This is necessary when your routing grooves or any detail that would get destroyed if the work piece moved away from the fence. 
See How I made this Cutting and Router Center

How I mounted my router in the router table


 
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