|
|
Now you can slide the rip fence over to the blade. If
you plan to run the tapered part thru the jointer afterwards to remove
sawmarks, leave a little space between the tooth and the stock. |
You might also want to check to make sure the jig
will cut off what you plan by sliding the jig and it's stop up to the blade
and measuring the distance. "Measure twice---cut once!"
|
Typically you taper the insides of the legs, so if you
have already chopped out mortises, you'll be tapering the sides where ever
your mortises are, like in the pic at left. Be very careful making this
cut, especially at the end, your fingers will be close to the blade. |
Think this cut out in your mind before you make it,
and keep your fingers on your hands!
|
There we go! I now have legs for my vanity and it's bench!
Since this is a project for a small child, I kept the taper to a minimum,
since this piece will probable receive a fair amount of abuse. More taper
would look even better, but might be more fragile.
Back to the Child's Vanity
|
|
Now here's a taper jig worth building. Not only is it
an adjustable taper jig, but it's also perfect for making angled cuts on
wide boards, and for straight-line ripping on your table saw. The jig has
a built-in system that allows you to adjust the size of the taper, making
it easy to remove the exact amount of material you want. In fact, once
the jig is adjusted you can cut four identical tapers in a matter of minutes
-- without changing the basic setup of the jig.
You
can get the plans here!
|
|
