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I recently picked up a job making a shelving unit for a plumber's small box truck. The owner had many plastic boxes he wanted to use as drawers and also fit tool boxes of about the same width. There are 105 drawers and room for 15 toolboxes in this job, but this could be altered to fit a variety of applications. Ours was a 12' long shelving unit, made up of an 8' and a 4' long section.

The first place to start is a rough drawing. Determine the height and width of your compartments, and remember that the shelf standards will have supports to hold the shelves. Make sure these supports don't get in the way of your plans. Also, tilt your shelves a bit to keep things from flying out while your on the road! i tilted these shelves at 15 degrees.
The standards, like the one above, are the depth and height of the finished unit. Each standard has 1X1s stapled to support the shelves. The end standards have supports on one side only, the inside standard have supports on both sides. To make all the standards the same, I made one, then used it as a pattern to make the rest. 
Now to start assembling the shelf, I rip a bunch of 1x1s to 48" long. Then I staple one of these 1/2" from the edge. I use construction adhesive on all joints, this unit will get allot of abuse, from workmen and bouncing along the hiways. After the 1x1 is secured, take one of the standards, glue up the edge and staple it to the support. Make sure you use a framing square to keep the unit pcs square.
To help speed up the spacing of the standards, I use a shelf to measure the distance to the next 48" support. Remember construction adhesive and staples or screws. 

There's the next the support.....
....and there's the next standard secured in place.
I continue along securing the 48" supports and standards, notice I've secured the bottom shelf to brace the assembly and keep it relatively square. 
First I made the 8" (approx.) section, then I made this 4" section. Notice there are only shelf supports on one side. Next I need to trim off the back plywood. I could use a circular saw...
....but a router does a much neater job. You could use a straight cutting bit to trim off the excess, but why destroy an expensive bit here. Instead I went back to my framing days, where we cut out all windows and openings with a router fitted with a.... 
....plunge flush trimmer! This carbide bit can plunge thru plywood to cut out windows and doors when sheathing, or trim of plywood or pine or anything else that overhangs like in the pic above left. 
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Here is the first unit installed. Notice the shelves aren't in there yet, to make it easier to lift into position. That light will have to go before the next section goes in.
Both sections are now in place and the shelves are being installed with a pneumatic staple gun. 

Lots of storage for small parts, the ideas here could be used in a variety of applications.

As an after thought, we installed two 4" pvc drain pipes to hold long sections of copper pipe. 

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