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Woodworkers Workshop

Before we can make this crazy thing, the first step is to make the bending jig, the form to bend the stock around. I used four pieces of 5/8" thick plywood to build up the 2-1/2" needed. Any size plywood is fine so long as you come up with the 2-1/2" height.
I carefully cut the first piece of the form fairly close to the pattern. The others I cut well outside the line. When assembled the first piece which is on top will act as a guide to sand the whole mess to.
To help keep the pieces in place when I start clamping this up, I shot a couple of short brads into the pieces. Glue is slippery, and if I don't secure them somehow, everything will slide all over the place as soon as I tighten the first clamp!
Ahhhh.... looks like a lot of clamps, eh? 

Well you ain't seen nuttin yet!

Using that top piece as a guide, I form the inside with my drum sander....
....and the outside with my disk sander. The inside doesn't need to be perfect, because only the clamps will be in there.  
The outside though will form the finished side, and needs to be smooth all the way across. Also take care to make it a smooth surface from one end to the other, no dents or dips, as these imperfections will transfer to the work piece later! NOTE:  When your done sanding, tape a piece of waxed paper to the outside if the jig. This will prevent the laminations from sticking to the jig, and damaging your hard work!
Ok, now you can mill up some stock, I used some old pine I had laying around. I made eight pieces at 1/8" thick by 2.5" by 24" long.
Find the center point of your jig, by simply measuring around the circumference. Then mark the center of all your stock, and start applying a thin coat of epoxy on all mating surfaces. Yellow glue won't work here, I prefer a structural epoxy, that requires overnight or longer to cure properly. 
This stuff really holds!
I let mine cure for 24 hours to be safe.
After your all glued up, grab your first clamp  
and apply a little pressure. Not too tight, or  
you'll squeeze all the epoxy out of your glue  
lines, and you will wind up with a "starved joint". 
To protect the outside from clamp marks, and to distribute the pressure across the entire width of the laminations, I cut two pieces of masonite (any scrap will do) and placed them against the outside of the assembly. I also cut 1/2" thick blocks out of some scrape maple. This will distribute the clamp pressure all the way from the top to the bottom. These are very important to use, because if you don't use these lil guys, you'll wind up with more pressure in the center under the clamp and sell on the edges, and your final assembly will be cupped all the way around, and not very strong.
Ok back to the clamps! After you snug your first clamp, start working your way around, by adding a clamp to each side of your first. Adding clamps to each side as you go helps keep the pieces from sliding around too much.
You will notice as you add clamps the center most clamps will loosen up and fall over. You will need to go back and snug these up again before you continue. Always add pressure from the center point outwards, bending gently as you go around, a little at a time. If you go from an end and just crank it around, the laminations will break! Take your time, this glue gives you plenty of time to work!
Ok, now that's allot of clamps! You got enough?

The next day I removed the clamps, and was pleased to see that the laminations only sprang back a little. I had made the pattern a little tighter in hopes to anticipate this.
Cleaning up the glue lines was not too difficult, using the jointer. But please be careful, it's not straight piece there going through the jointer! You can't use a push stick, so your fingers are there instead!  

NOTE: If you don't feel comfortable doing this, try using your disk sander or belt sander, both will work just fine. Always make sure the guard is in place whenever you use your jointer!!! 

Here's a short video of the process:

Now to drill that 1-3/8" hole and of course 90 degrees would be way too simple! I'm sorry it's a lousy pic but I set the curve thing on a block of scrap, and shimmed up both sides to keep it from rocking. Then I set my drill press at 280 rpms and slowly started my way in. Since I don't want to tear out the back when the drill exits, I continue very slowly. Take your time!
Sorry, another chip filled picture, but you can see the shim stock on the right, This helps to hold the work piece at the proper angle, and keep it from rocking around at the same time!
Our first test is a success! Now to trim it down and make it look more elegant!
I turn to the disk sander now. Slowly removing stock from the outside of each end. During this process I occasionally tested the bottle angle. The goal is to make sure the cork stays wet while it's on display.
I know I know, no cork on this bottle! But you get the idea! Now all that's left is to sand the edges and finish it any way you like!

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